Publications scientifiques
Michèle N. Fanwa* (Auteur correspondant)
Autres affiliations : Université Le Havre Normandie · Normandie Université · Unité de Recherche en Chimie Organique et Macromoléculaire
Arnaud Maxime Cheumani Yona
Catherine Malhiac
Autres affiliations : Normandie Université · Unité de Recherche en Chimie Organique et Macromoléculaire
Nicolas Hucher
Autres affiliations : Normandie Université · Unité de Recherche en Chimie Organique et Macromoléculaire
Michel Grisel* (Auteur correspondant)
Autres affiliations : Normandie Université · Unité de Recherche en Chimie Organique et Macromoléculaire
Polymers
The cosmetics industry is searching for efficient and sustainable substances capable of stabilizing emulsions or colloidal dispersions that are thermodynamically unstable because of their high surface energy. Therefore, surfactants are commonly used to stabilize the water/oil interface. However, the presence of a surfactant is not always sufficient to obtain stable emulsions on the one hand, and conventional surfactants are often subject to such controversies as their petroleum origin and environmental concerns on the other hand. As a consequence, among other challenges, it is obvious that research related to new—natural, biodegradable, biocompatible, available, competitive—surfactants are nowadays more intensive. This study aims to valorize a natural gum from Triumfetta cordifolia (T. cordifolia) as a sustainable emulsifier and stabilizer for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, and to evaluate how the nature of the fatty phase could affect this potential. To this end, O/W emulsions were prepared at room temperature using three different oils varying in composition, using a rotor–stator mixer. Resulting mixtures were characterized using optical microscopy, laser granulometry, rheology, pH and stability monitoring over time. The results demonstrated good potential for the gum as an emulsifying agent. T. cordifolia gum appears efficient even at very low concentrations (0.2% w/w) for the preparation and stabilization of the different O/W emulsions. The best results were observed for cocoglyceride oil due to its stronger effect of lowering interfacial tension (IFT) thus acting as a co-emulsifier. Therefore, overall results showed that T. cordifolia gum is undoubtedly a highly promising new bio-sourced and environmentally friendly emulsifier/stabilizer for many applications including cosmetics.
